Why is the whole German settlement a cozy holland. Lefortovo Palace in the German Sloboda: the difficult history of the first palace of the Peter's era

In contact with

German settlement - a place of settlement of foreigners in Moscow in the XVI-XVIII centuries.

In the common people it was called the Kukui settlement.

Germans then called not only the natives of Germany, but in general any foreigners who did not know the Russian language ("dumb").

Heinrich de Witt, Public Domain

History

The first German settlement in Moscow appeared under Vasily III, who took with him an honorary guard of hired foreigners and assigned them to settle in the Nalivka settlement in Zamoskvorechye, between Polyanka and Yakimanka. This settlement was burned down by the Crimean Khan Devlet I Giray during his attack on Moscow in 1571.

The campaigns of Tsar Ivan IV to Livonia brought a very large number of German prisoners to Moscow. Some of them were sent to the cities. The other part settled in Moscow and for construction they were given a new place, near the mouth of the Yauza, on its right bank. In 1578, this German settlement was subjected to a pogrom by Ivan IV.

The patron saint of foreigners was Boris Godunov. During his reign, many foreigners appeared in Moscow. However, the Troubles brought with it a new ruin: the German settlement was burned to the ground. Its population fled to the cities, and those who remained in Moscow began to settle in the area near the Rotten Ponds, but their houses were on, on and on Sivtsevoy Vrazhka.


Sergei Vasilyevich Ivanov (1864-1910), Public Domain

Living in Russia, foreigners retained their religion, intermarrying with each other, regardless of nationality and religious affiliation. They married very rarely with Russians, and only those who adopted the Orthodox (Greek) faith. They came to Russia for the sake of trade or to enter the service of the Russian tsars as military men, doctors or craftsmen of various specialties.

The increase in their number in Moscow was the reason for their separation from the Orthodox Muscovites. In 1652, by tsarist decree, they were moved outside the city - to the New German settlement, which was located in the same place as the former German settlement. Two Lutheran churches were also transported here from Moscow, and special places were set aside for them, as well as for the Calvinist (Dutch) church.

In the XVII century. Russian people, mainly from the court nobility, borrowed household items from the "Germans". In the house of a wealthy Russian man of the 17th century, it was no longer uncommon to find tables and chairs made of ebony or Indian wood next to simple linden or oak tables or benches. Mirrors and clocks began to appear on the walls.

Foreigners who settled in Moscow found themselves in an advantageous position: they did not pay trade duties, they could "smoke wine" and brew beer. This caused considerable envy among the Russian population, the influence of foreigners on clothing and everyday life aroused fears of the clergy, homeowners complained that the "Germans" were raising land prices. The government had to satisfy these complaints. Around 1652, the Germans were ordered to sell their houses to the Russians; foreign churches were demolished and all foreigners were invited to move to the area of ​​German Street (now - Baumanskaya Street), where a new German settlement was formed.

By the end of the 17th century, it was already a real German (foreign) town with clean straight streets, cozy and tidy houses. The attitude towards the German side was not the same. Some favored her, others looked at foreigners as heretics.

On the shore in the second half of the 17th century. was opened one of the first manufactories in Moscow - the manufactory of Albert Paulsen. In 1701, Ya. G. Gregory opened a private pharmacy in the Nemetskaya Sloboda. The lane on which the pharmacy stood was named Aptekarsky lane. Peter I was a frequent visitor to this settlement, here he met Lefort and Gordon, future associates of the king, and began an affair with Anna Mons. Under Peter the Great, the German settlements lost their autonomy and became subject to the Burmister Chamber.

Since the beginning of the XVIII century. the suburban way of life almost disappeared, the territory began to be built up with palaces of the nobility. The Silk Factory of the Russian businessman P. Belavin, the Ribbon Factory of N. Ivanov, and others appeared on the banks of the Yauza. After the Napoleonic pogrom of 1812, the former German settlement was populated mainly by merchants and bourgeoisie. According to the German settlement, it was named German Street (since 1918 - Baumanskaya Street). From the middle of the XIX century. the name German settlement disappears in the Moscow vocabulary and the name Lefortovo partially spreads on its territory.

Photo gallery


Founded: XVI-XVIII centuries

Useful information

German settlement

Cultural heritage

Churches of other Christian denominations other than Orthodoxy were built on the territory of the German settlement.

Among them is the Catholic Church of the Holy Apostles Peter and Paul, which was demolished and replaced in 1845 with a new one, closer to the center of Moscow, in Milyutinsky Lane.

Historically, there were two Lutheran churches on the territory of the German Quarter:

  • St. Michael's Church (present-day Radio Street, 17) - "old church" (church) or "merchant church". Demolished in 1928. From the church has its name, located nearby, Novokirochny lane (church "old" - lane "novokirochny").
  • Church of Saints Peter and Paul - "new church" (church) or "officers' church". Burned down during a fire in 1812. From the church it is called Starokirochny lane ("new" church - "starokirochny" lane).

The cultural layer of the German settlement (16th century-17th century) is an archeological monument with a federal category of protection.

The house of the Dutch physicians Van der Gulst, which is colloquially called the house of Anna Mons, has survived from the residential area in a heavily rebuilt form.

  • German settlement- the area between the Baumanskaya and Kurskaya metro stations. The Germans and the Dutch who worked at the royal court settled here 300 years ago.
  • It was one of the favorite places of Peter the Great... His friends and associates lived here: Franz Lefort, Patrick Gordon, his first love - German Anna Mons.
  • Lefortovo palace was built for Franz Lefort, a friend and associate of Peter I. Here Peter lived during his stay in Moscow.
  • Sloboda Palace after the fire of 1812, it was rebuilt by Domenico Gilardi. Today it is one of the buildings technical university them. Bauman.
  • One of the most luxurious houses in Moscow- the wooden estate of Razumovsky on the Yauza 1799 - 1802.
  • Notable monument of industrial architecture 19th century - gas plant ARMA. Today, the factory shops house offices, clubs, art galleries.

The famous German settlement was once located in the vast area between the Baumanskaya and Kurskaya metro stations. A place where you can still find echoes of the times of the emperors, Catherine II and Alexander I, admire the Lefortovo Palace, Yelokhovsky Epiphany Cathedral, and other architectural monuments. And next to the settlement, in the area with the old name Gorokhovo Pole that speaks for itself, there are many interesting old estates and churches.

Voznesenskaya Street (the current name is Radio Street) is named after the Church of the Ascension on Gorokhovoye Pole. Turning right along this street, you can reach the former Elizabethan Institute for Noble Maidens.

Initially, this mansion belonged to Nikita Demidov, a representative of the famous family of Ural miners. His son Nikolai Demidov in 1827 donated his estate to the house of industriousness, on the basis of which the Elizabethan Women's Institute was soon established. The girls studied languages, history, geography, mathematics, the law of God, and home economics.

This tradition partly continued in Soviet times, when the Elizabethan Institute became the Moscow Regional Pedagogical Institute named after Krupskaya. Unfortunately, the Demidovs' estate was poorly preserved - the palace was rebuilt many times, buildings on the territory were partially demolished or built on.

Church of the Ascension on the Pea Field

Church of the Ascension on the Gorokhovoye Pole (Radio Street, 2). This area became part of Moscow only in the 18th century, before that there was a simple field on which peas were actually sown. The famous Moscow architect, Matvey Kazakov, who served as the chief architect of Moscow, transformed it beyond recognition.

Matvey Kazakov's Moscow is the Petrovsky Travel Palace, the Senate in the Kremlin, the Column Hall of the House of the Unions, the churches of Metropolitan Philip, Cosmas and Damian, and, of course, the Church of the Ascension on Gorokhovoye Pole. Here Kazakov used his favorite motive - the rotunda, in the form of which the main building of the church was built. It is decorated with Ionic semi-columns, which are in tune with the Ionic colonnade surrounding the rotunda. Unfortunately, the interior of the temple in Soviet years was lost. But the original church fence has survived - a genuine monument of 1805. Near the church there is a small shop where you can buy monastery pies, buns and gingerbreads.

Razumovsky's estate on the Yauza

One of the most luxurious houses in Moscow, the Razumovsky estate is comparable to large tsarist country residences - Tsaritsyn, Petrovsky traveling palace, St. Petersburg Pavlovsky or Tsarskoe Selo... Together with the outbuildings, the estate occupies half of the modern Kazakova Street (Kazakova St., 18). Its owner was Count Alexei Razumovsky, Minister of Public Education, Privy Councilor, Senator. The estate was built by his order in 1799 - 1802. The name of the architect is unknown. Among the possible authors are named Matvey Kazakov, Nikolai Lvov, Giacomo Quarenghi.

Overseas guests

The first German settlement appeared in Moscow at the end of the 16th century. The inhabitants of the Russian State called not only immigrants from Germany, but also all foreigners in general as Germans. Those, allegedly, were dumb, because they did not know the Russian language. He began to invite foreigners to settle in the capital Vasily III... He took the overseas guests to the Nalivka settlement between Polyanka and Yakimanka. That settlement did not last long - in 1571 it was burned by the troops of Devlet Giray.

Map of the German settlement

Expulsion from Kukui

Russians complained that the Germans were drinking them and engaging in usury

After the Livonian War, Ivan IV brought many captive foreigners to the capital. For settlement they were given a place at the mouth of the Yauza. Muscovites called the settlement Kukuy, according to one version, by the name of the stream flowing there. Another version says that the Germans, being surprised at what was happening on the streets, said to each other: “Kucken Sie!”, Which means “Look!”. Foreigners had many privileges: they could do their own crafts, "smoke" wine and practice their religion. Soon the Russians began to complain to the tsar that the Germans were getting them drunk and engaging in usury. The Grozny settlement had to be smashed, and the foreigners themselves, as the French traveler Margeret wrote in his notes, were "expelled in the winter naked, in which the mother gave birth."

Little Europe

In the same place, the German settlement was revived only in the middle of the 17th century. By a royal decree, non-Orthodox foreigners were ordered to move to the Yauza. The Germans made themselves at home - they built a whole small town with straight, clean streets, neat wooden houses and gardens. They also had their own churches: two Lutheran, Reformed and Catholic. The Czech traveler Tarner wrote: "they kept ... order on the model of German cities in the construction and multiplication of houses, which they built beautifully and prudently." The settlement was mainly occupied by officers and military specialists who were invited to work by Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich. There were also many merchants, pharmacists and doctors. Moscow eagerly received craftsmen from Germany, Holland, England, Denmark, Sweden and other European countries.

Imperial revelry

Peter I seriously considered marrying Anna Mons

The German settlement was especially fond of the future emperor Peter I. Kukui became for him a small Europe, with which he still had to really get to know during the Great Embassy. V Russian society women still had much less rights than men and could not be present in male society. In the German suburb, women easily participated in balls and revelry on an equal basis with men. In Kukui, Peter forgot conventions, sported in "German" dresses, danced "German" dances and organized noisy feasts.

First love of Peter I

It was in Kukuj that Peter started his first big romance with the locust of the German jeweler Anna Mons. She remained the king's favorite until 1704. In the settlement she was nicknamed "the Kukui queen." Peter generously endowed Mons, appointed her mother an annual boarding school and granted the Dudin volost as a fiefdom. For the sake of a German woman, the emperor even exiled his wife Evdokia to a monastery and was already seriously considering marrying Mons. But in her numerous letters for a little over ten years, not a word about love has appeared. Peter left his mistress with great regret.

Friendship with Lefort and Gordon

In Kukui, the future emperor found not only love, but also friends. It was in the German settlement that he met the Swiss Franz Lefort and the Scotsman Patrick Gordon. They had a tremendous influence on Peter and were his associates in carrying out numerous reforms. Lefort was cheerful and energetic, he easily came up with new entertainments. It was Lefort, with his exquisite manners, who taught Peter to communicate with ladies and introduced him to Anna Mons. He also gave the Tsarevich the idea to go to Europe to study science and attract foreign specialists to Russia. Gordon was a strict Catholic and family man. It was a Scottish officer who became the future emperor's military adviser.

Lefort advised Peter to go to Europe to study sciences

By the beginning of the 18th century, the German settlement had lost its autonomy. Kukui gradually began to be built up with palaces of aristocrats. During the war with Napoleon, the settlement was almost completely burned out. After that, it was settled by merchants and bourgeoisie. Part of the territories of the former German settlement were named Lefortovo. Kukui remained in the memory of the townspeople only thanks to German Street, which has now been renamed Baumanskaya.

The German settlement was located in the northeastern part of Moscow, on the right bank of the Yauza, near the Kukui stream... Actually, the people called this place so -Kukui settlement ... Well, the Germans at that time they calledany foreigners who did not know the Russian language ("dumb").


During the campaigns of Ivan IVto Livonia in Moscowa large number of German prisoners appears. Some of them were sent to the cities. Another part settles in Moscow, where they are allocated a place near the mouth of the Yauza, on its right bank. In 1578.this German settlement was subjected to a pogrom by Ivan IV.

Under Boris Godunov, many foreigners appear in Moscow, but during the Time of Troubles, the German settlement was burned to the ground, and its population scattered across the cities. Those who remained in Moscow settled near the Pogany Ponds area, on the Arbat, Tverskaya Street and on Sivtsevoy Vrazhka.

The number of foreigners in Moscow is gradually increasing, which was the reason for their separation from Orthodox Muscovites. In 1652. by tsarist decree, they were moved outside the city to the so-called New German settlement, which was located in the same place as the former German settlement. Two Lutheran churches were also transported here from Moscow, and special places were set aside for them, as well as a place for the Calvinist (Dutch) church.

German settlement and a German cemetery on the plan of Moscow 1630-1640. Engraving from "Travel" by A. Olearius

Foreigners who settled in Moscow found themselves in an advantageous position: they did not pay trade duties, they could "smoke wine" and brew beer. This aroused considerable envy among the Russian population, the influence of foreigners on clothing and life aroused fears of the clergy, homeowners complained that the "Germans" were raising land prices. The government had to satisfy these complaints and in about 1652. the Germans were ordered to sell their houses to Russian-foreign churches were demolished and the foreigners themselves were asked to move to the area of ​​German Street (Baumanskaya Street), where a new German settlement was formed.

By the end of the XVII century. it was already a real German (foreign) town with clean straight streets, cozy and tidy houses.

In the second half of the 17th century. on the banks of the Yauza was opened one of the firstin Moscow, the manufactory was the manufactory of Albert Paulsen, and in 1701 Ya. G. Gregory opened a private pharmacy in the Nemetskaya Sloboda. The lane on which the pharmacy stood was named Aptekarsky lane.

House of Lefort

Peter I was a frequent visitor to the Nemetskaya Sloboda. Here he met Lefort and Gordon. , future associates of the king and started an affair with Anna Mons... Also, under Peter I, the German settlements lost their autonomy and began to obey the Burmister Chamber.

Franz Yakovlevich Lefort Patrick Leopold Gordon

With the beginning of the 18th century. the habitual suburban way of life almost disappeared, the territory began to be built up with palaces of the nobility. The Silk Factory of the Russian entrepreneur P. Belavin, the Ribbon Factory of N. Ivanov and various other industries appeared on the banks of the Yauza.

After 1812, the former German settlement was populated mainly by merchants and bourgeoisie. According to the German settlement, it was named German Street (since 1918 - Baumanskaya Street). And from the middle of the XIX century. the name German settlement completely disappears from the Moscow vocabulary and the name Lefortovo partially spreads on its territory.

Let's walk a little along the streets of the former German settlement and see what is interesting here ...

The main house of the estate of the Karabanovs VXIII century.

The estate was built according to the project of M.F. Kazakov. The main house of the estate was built no later than the 1770s. At the end of the XVIII century. the estate belonged to the foreman F.L. Karabanov, and since 1799. to his son, P.F.Karabanov, a collector of Russian antiquities.

Along Baumanskaya street comes acrosshistorical buildings of the 18th-19th centuries

Lefortovo police station. Starokirochny lane d. 13
In the middle of the XVIII century. the site on which this building stands was owned by Lieutenant-General Martynov, and in the 18th and early 19th centuries, General A.M. Nesterov

In 1832. this site was acquired by the treasury, and before the establishment Soviet power here was the Lefortovo private house, which housed the police barracks, the fire station and the office. A wooden tower was built over the house, dismantled during the Soviet era

Residential building of the 18th-19th centuries In this house lived the painter Franz Hilferding, who came to Russia at the end of the 18th century. from Vienna and painted scenery for theatrical performances in St. Petersburg and Moscow

Lefortovo Palace, 17th-18th centuries Second Baumanskaya St., 3
The palace was built in 1697-1699. architect D. Aksamitov and upon completion of construction was presented by Peter I to General Lefort. The layout of the palace speaks of the new principles of Russian architecture: the plan is symmetrical in composition, at the corners and in the center there are ledges where the halls of the palace were located. In the central hall there was a huge tiled stove, on the walls were portraits, then called "parsuns". Here Peter I organized his famous feast assemblies.


In 1706-1708. the new owner of the palace A.D. Menshikov surrounds the ceremonial palace courtyard with a closed rectangle of buildings with a solemn entrance, heavy in proportions. On the courtyard side, these buildings had arcades, so typical of Italian courtyards. In the 19th century, arcades were mostly laid out. The author of these corpuses is believed to be the Italian J.M. Fontana.

It was here that Peter I cut boyar beards


In 1729-30. the palace was the seat of the minor Emperor Peter II, whose death also took place in this building.

Lefortovo Palace plan

Lefortovo Palace in the foreground in a 19th century photograph.

Slobodskoy Palace of Count A.P. Bestuzhev-Ryumin (MSTU named after N.E.Bauman) 1749 Second Baumanskaya street, 5
AfterA.P. Bestuzhev-Ryumin belonged toA.A. Bezborodko, who presented it to Paul I in 1797. In 1797-1812. served as the Moscow residence of the emperors. In 1812 it burned down and rebuilt in 1826 for the workshops of the Imperial Orphanage.

The building was given a modern look in the late Moscow Empire style by the architect D.I. Gilardi. The central part is decorated by the sculptor I.P. Vitali with the multi-figured composition "Minerva", symbolizing the achievements of science and the practical skills of an artisan

Photo from the early 1930s.

Detail of the fence of the Sloboda Palace with a mysterious inscription

Dormitory for poor students of the Imperial Technical School, early XX century. Brigadirsky lane, 14
Built in 1903 by the architect L.N.Kekushev with funds collected by V.A. Morozova as Chairman of the Society for Aid to Needy Students of the Imperial Moscow Technical School

Photo of the beginning of XX century.

And this is a detail of the fence in the form of the fascia of the Senate House or the so-called Phanagoria barracks, XVIII century.

Once upon a time this place looked like this

Brigadirsky per., 11

Baumanskaya st., 70

St. Radio, 14

View towards the house 14. On the right in the photograph are the snowmobiles developed at TsAGI under the guidance of A.N. Tupolev


Elizabethan Institute for Noble Maidens, XIX century. st. Radio, 10
Founded in 1825 Named in honor of Empress Elizabeth Alekseevna (wife of Alexander I), it was housed in a manor house with a now defunct regular park and a system of ponds, which at the beginning of the 18th century. belonged to F.Yu. Romodanovsky, then M.G. Golovkin, and in the middle of the 18th century. under N.A. Demidov was doubled and received a new one-story baroque house.

At the end of the 18th century. a stone greenhouse was erected, as well as a complex of one-story buildings (house and theater) in the style of early classicism. After the founding of the Elizabethan Institute, a park building and a church were built (second half of the 19th century); at the turn of the XIX-XX centuries. the main house was partially rebuilt in simplified neoclassical forms. After 1917. The Elizabethan Institute was abolished, and since 1931. the building is occupied by the Moscow Regional Pedagogical University.

Elizabethan Institute for Noble Maidens, photo of the early XX century.

Mechanical plant building A. K. Dangauer and V. V. Kaiser, 1889, st. Radio, 13

Aerodynamic tower on the building of the experimental department of TsAGI

City estate of the XIX century. St. Radio, 11

The estate complex was rebuilt by the architect P.A. Drittenpreis in 1885-1896.

Temple of the Ascension on the Gorokhovoe field, XVIII century, st. Radio, d.2s1. Architect M.F. Kazakov.The pea field has been known since 1718. Here in the 17th century. there lived a foreigner Davyd Bacherat. In 1718. there was a country courtyard of Chancellor GI Golovkin, who in 1731 asked permission to build, and in September 1733. consecrated the stone church of the Ascension at his home. In 1741. all Golovkin's estates were confiscated, and around 1742. his yard passed to Count A.G. Razumovsky.

In 1773. the church turned from a house house to a parish one. The current stone building was built by the care of the priest Peter Andreev with the special assistance of parishioner Nikolai Nikitich Demidov and other parishioners. The laying took place on May 25, 1788, consecration on May 2, 1793. The temple is a rare architectural monument of early classicism. The church was renovated in 1872.

Church of the Ascension on the Gorokhovoye field, photo of the end of the 19th century.


At the beginning of the XX century. there was a parish school at the church.After it was closed in 1935, it housed a hostel. In 1980. the building was occupied by the printing house of the "Upakovka" production association of the Ministry of Light Industry.In the 1960s. the church was externally restored, and in 1990 it was restored again.In 1990, according to a letter from Patriarch Alexy II of August 31, the executive committee of the Moscow City Council handed over the temple to the Orthodox Church. Services resumed in 1993.

Manor of the Struiskys-Belavins-Varentsovs, XVIII-XIX centuries, Tokmakov per., 21 / 2-23
The first known owner of the area in which this estate stands was a memorial in the history of Russian culture of the 18th century. publisher and poet Nikolai Struisky. In 1771 the estate passed to the second-major P. B. Belavin, who set up a silk factory on the territory of the estate, in its eastern half.

N. Struisky

It was first started in 1743. Moscow merchant Mikhail Savin, from whose son Belavin acquired it. The factory had 22 mills, which employed 35 men and 23 women, the factory in 1775. produced fabrics for 16 620 rubles. Perhaps it was here, at the Belavin factory, that his serf Fyodor Guchkov, who later started his own business and became one of the most famous Moscow textile manufacturers, began to work as a boy.

The factory also operates under the following owners - merchants Chetverikov, but at the end of the XIX century. factory buildings are demolished and a garden is laid out in their place. In 1890, the estate was sold to businessman Nikolai Aleksandrovich Varentsov, who traded in cotton and wool, and the head of the board of the manufactory in Kineshma.

After the revolution, communal apartments were set up here, and later various Soviet offices were located. Since 1995 in the estate settled the Society of merchants and industrialists of Russia. And in 2001. a complete reconstruction began - in fact, an ordinary concrete copy of the estate was created ... At the same time, the color of the main house changed - from yellow it turned blue.

Church of the Second Community of Old Believers-Pomors of Marital Consent in the Name of the Resurrection of Christ and the Intercession of the Mother of God, 1907-1908, architect I.E. Bondarenko.
Wealthy Old Believers spared no expense in building and decorating churches, which began to be built after the ban imposed in 1856 was lifted. I.V. Morozov told the architect: "What is needed - tell me, everything will be ... No estimate is needed, how much is needed, it will cost so much, just to make it feel good!" In Tokmakov Lane, construction began on May 1, 1907, and in the fall the building was already standing, ready for finishing work, which lasted all winter and spring. next year... Consecration in the name of the Resurrection of Christ and the Protection of the Virgin took place on June 8, 1908. The cost of construction and finishing was about 150 thousand rubles.

Photo of 1909.

Everything in the church was made according to the project of I. Ye. Bondarenko: the iconostasis of dark bog oak, and bronze utensils, and wrought iron decorations, and majolica, made in the Mammoth pottery workshop "Abramtsevo" in Butyrki. V this moment it seems like the restoration work is being carried out

Wooden dwelling house A.V. Krupennikov, 1912-1913, architect V.A.Rudanovsky, Denisovsky lane, 24

Mansion 1903, architect L.F. Dauksh, Denisovskiy per., 30s1

Mansion of the early 19th century, Denisovskiy per. 23
At the heart of this building are the chambers of the XII-XVIII centuries, which completely preserved the system of vaults in the basement floor. In 1777. its owner was I.I. Butasov. It is possible that by 1817. it was built on a much older foundation by Second Lieutenant S.G. Savin

And this is the very first building of the architect F.O. Shekhtel. Baumanskaya st. d. 58
In 1878 (according to other sources, in 1884), he fulfilled the order of the textile manufacturer Shchapov, having built a residential building for him at the corner of modern German Baumanskaya) and Denisovsky Lane.

Here is such a walk. I hope I didn't tire you too much. Thank you for walking with me


During the campaigns of Ivan IVto Livonia in Moscowa large number of German prisoners appears. Some of them were sent to the cities. Another part settles in Moscow, where they are allocated a place near the mouth of the Yauza, on its right bank. In 1578.this German settlement was subjected to a pogrom by Ivan IV.

Under Boris Godunov, many foreigners appear in Moscow, but during the Time of Troubles, the German settlement was burned to the ground, and its population scattered across the cities. Those who remained in Moscow settled near the Pogany Ponds area, on the Arbat, Tverskaya Street and on Sivtsevoy Vrazhka.

The number of foreigners in Moscow is gradually increasing, which was the reason for their separation from Orthodox Muscovites. In 1652. by tsarist decree, they were moved outside the city to the so-called New German settlement, which was located in the same place as the former German settlement. Two Lutheran churches were also transported here from Moscow, and special places were set aside for them, as well as a place for the Calvinist (Dutch) church.

German settlement and a German cemetery on the plan of Moscow 1630-1640. Engraving from "Travel" by A. Olearius

Foreigners who settled in Moscow found themselves in an advantageous position: they did not pay trade duties, they could "smoke wine" and brew beer. This aroused considerable envy among the Russian population, the influence of foreigners on clothing and life aroused fears of the clergy, homeowners complained that the "Germans" were raising land prices. The government had to satisfy these complaints and in about 1652. the Germans were ordered to sell their houses to Russian-foreign churches were demolished and the foreigners themselves were asked to move to the area of ​​German Street (Baumanskaya Street), where a new German settlement was formed.

By the end of the XVII century. it was already a real German (foreign) town with clean straight streets, cozy and tidy houses.

In the second half of the 17th century. on the banks of the Yauza was opened one of the firstin Moscow, the manufactory was the manufactory of Albert Paulsen, and in 1701 Ya. G. Gregory opened a private pharmacy in the Nemetskaya Sloboda. The lane on which the pharmacy stood was named Aptekarsky lane.

House of Lefort

Peter I was a frequent visitor to the Nemetskaya Sloboda. Here he met Lefort and Gordon. , future associates of the king and started an affair with Anna Mons... Also, under Peter I, the German settlements lost their autonomy and began to obey the Burmister Chamber.

Franz Yakovlevich Lefort Patrick Leopold Gordon

With the beginning of the 18th century. the habitual suburban way of life almost disappeared, the territory began to be built up with palaces of the nobility. The Silk Factory of the Russian entrepreneur P. Belavin, the Ribbon Factory of N. Ivanov and various other industries appeared on the banks of the Yauza.

After 1812, the former German settlement was populated mainly by merchants and bourgeoisie. According to the German settlement, it was named German Street (since 1918 - Baumanskaya Street). And from the middle of the XIX century. the name German settlement completely disappears from the Moscow vocabulary and the name Lefortovo partially spreads on its territory.

Let's walk a little along the streets of the former German settlement and see what is interesting here ...

The main house of the estate of the Karabanovs VXIII century.

The estate was built according to the project of M.F. Kazakov. The main house of the estate was built no later than the 1770s. At the end of the XVIII century. the estate belonged to the foreman F.L. Karabanov, and since 1799. to his son, P.F.Karabanov, a collector of Russian antiquities.

Along Baumanskaya street comes acrosshistorical buildings of the 18th-19th centuries

Lefortovo police station. Starokirochny lane d. 13
In the middle of the XVIII century. the site on which this building stands was owned by Lieutenant-General Martynov, and in the 18th and early 19th centuries, General A.M. Nesterov

In 1832. this site was acquired by the treasury, and before the establishment of Soviet power, the Lefortovo private house was located here, which housed the police barracks, a fire station and an office. A wooden tower was built over the house, dismantled during the Soviet era

Residential building of the 18th-19th centuries In this house lived the painter Franz Hilferding, who came to Russia at the end of the 18th century. from Vienna and painted scenery for theatrical performances in St. Petersburg and Moscow

Lefortovo Palace, 17th-18th centuries Second Baumanskaya St., 3
The palace was built in 1697-1699. architect D. Aksamitov and upon completion of construction was presented by Peter I to General Lefort. The layout of the palace speaks of the new principles of Russian architecture: the plan is symmetrical in composition, at the corners and in the center there are ledges where the halls of the palace were located. In the central hall there was a huge tiled stove, on the walls were portraits, then called "parsuns". Here Peter I organized his famous feast assemblies.


In 1706-1708. the new owner of the palace A.D. Menshikov surrounds the ceremonial palace courtyard with a closed rectangle of buildings with a solemn entrance, heavy in proportions. On the courtyard side, these buildings had arcades, so typical of Italian courtyards. In the 19th century, arcades were mostly laid out. The author of these corpuses is believed to be the Italian J.M. Fontana.

It was here that Peter I cut boyar beards


In 1729-30. the palace was the seat of the minor Emperor Peter II, whose death also took place in this building.

Lefortovo Palace plan

Lefortovo Palace in the foreground in a 19th century photograph.

Slobodskoy Palace of Count A.P. Bestuzhev-Ryumin (MSTU named after N.E.Bauman) 1749 Second Baumanskaya street, 5
AfterA.P. Bestuzhev-Ryumin belonged toA.A. Bezborodko, who presented it to Paul I in 1797. In 1797-1812. served as the Moscow residence of the emperors. In 1812 it burned down and rebuilt in 1826 for the workshops of the Imperial Orphanage.

The building was given a modern look in the late Moscow Empire style by the architect D.I. Gilardi. The central part is decorated by the sculptor I.P. Vitali with the multi-figured composition "Minerva", symbolizing the achievements of science and the practical skills of an artisan

Photo from the early 1930s.

Detail of the fence of the Sloboda Palace with a mysterious inscription

Dormitory for poor students of the Imperial Technical School, early XX century. Brigadirsky lane, 14
Built in 1903 by the architect L.N.Kekushev with funds collected by V.A. Morozova as Chairman of the Society for Aid to Needy Students of the Imperial Moscow Technical School

Photo of the beginning of XX century.

And this is a detail of the fence in the form of the fascia of the Senate House or the so-called Phanagoria barracks, XVIII century.

Once upon a time this place looked like this

Brigadirsky per., 11

Baumanskaya st., 70

St. Radio, 14

View towards the house 14. On the right in the photograph are the snowmobiles developed at TsAGI under the guidance of A.N. Tupolev


Elizabethan Institute for Noble Maidens, XIX century. st. Radio, 10
Founded in 1825 Named in honor of Empress Elizabeth Alekseevna (wife of Alexander I), it was housed in a manor house with a now defunct regular park and a system of ponds, which at the beginning of the 18th century. belonged to F.Yu. Romodanovsky, then M.G. Golovkin, and in the middle of the 18th century. under N.A. Demidov was doubled and received a new one-story baroque house.

At the end of the 18th century. a stone greenhouse was erected, as well as a complex of one-story buildings (house and theater) in the style of early classicism. After the founding of the Elizabethan Institute, a park building and a church were built (second half of the 19th century); at the turn of the XIX-XX centuries. the main house was partially rebuilt in simplified neoclassical forms. After 1917. The Elizabethan Institute was abolished, and since 1931. the building is occupied by the Moscow Regional Pedagogical University.

Elizabethan Institute for Noble Maidens, photo of the early XX century.

Mechanical plant building A. K. Dangauer and V. V. Kaiser, 1889, st. Radio, 13

Aerodynamic tower on the building of the experimental department of TsAGI

City estate of the XIX century. St. Radio, 11

The estate complex was rebuilt by the architect P.A. Drittenpreis in 1885-1896.

Temple of the Ascension on the Gorokhovoe field, XVIII century, st. Radio, d.2s1. Architect M.F. Kazakov.The pea field has been known since 1718. Here in the 17th century. there lived a foreigner Davyd Bacherat. In 1718. there was a country courtyard of Chancellor GI Golovkin, who in 1731 asked permission to build, and in September 1733. consecrated the stone church of the Ascension at his home. In 1741. all Golovkin's estates were confiscated, and around 1742. his yard passed to Count A.G. Razumovsky.

In 1773. the church turned from a house house to a parish one. The current stone building was built by the care of the priest Peter Andreev with the special assistance of parishioner Nikolai Nikitich Demidov and other parishioners. The laying took place on May 25, 1788, consecration on May 2, 1793. The temple is a rare architectural monument of early classicism. The church was renovated in 1872.

Church of the Ascension on the Gorokhovoye field, photo of the end of the 19th century.


At the beginning of the XX century. there was a parish school at the church.After it was closed in 1935, it housed a hostel. In 1980. the building was occupied by the printing house of the "Upakovka" production association of the Ministry of Light Industry.In the 1960s. the church was externally restored, and in 1990 it was restored again.In 1990, according to a letter from Patriarch Alexy II of August 31, the executive committee of the Moscow City Council handed over the temple to the Orthodox Church. Services resumed in 1993.

Manor of the Struiskys-Belavins-Varentsovs, XVIII-XIX centuries, Tokmakov per., 21 / 2-23
The first known owner of the area in which this estate stands was a memorial in the history of Russian culture of the 18th century. publisher and poet Nikolai Struisky. In 1771 the estate passed to the second-major P. B. Belavin, who set up a silk factory on the territory of the estate, in its eastern half.

N. Struisky

It was first started in 1743. Moscow merchant Mikhail Savin, from whose son Belavin acquired it. The factory had 22 mills, which employed 35 men and 23 women, the factory in 1775. produced fabrics for 16 620 rubles. Perhaps it was here, at the Belavin factory, that his serf Fyodor Guchkov, who later started his own business and became one of the most famous Moscow textile manufacturers, began to work as a boy.

The factory also operates under the following owners - merchants Chetverikov, but at the end of the XIX century. factory buildings are demolished and a garden is laid out in their place. In 1890, the estate was sold to businessman Nikolai Aleksandrovich Varentsov, who traded in cotton and wool, and the head of the board of the manufactory in Kineshma.

After the revolution, communal apartments were set up here, and later various Soviet offices were located. Since 1995 in the estate settled the Society of merchants and industrialists of Russia. And in 2001. a complete reconstruction began - in fact, an ordinary concrete copy of the estate was created ... At the same time, the color of the main house changed - from yellow it turned blue.

Church of the Second Community of Old Believers-Pomors of Marital Consent in the Name of the Resurrection of Christ and the Intercession of the Mother of God, 1907-1908, architect I.E. Bondarenko.
Wealthy Old Believers did not spare money for the construction and decoration of churches, which began to be built after the ban imposed in 1856 was lifted. I.V. Morozov told the architect: "What is needed - tell me, everything will be ... No estimate is needed, how much is needed, it will cost so much, just to make it feel good!" In Tokmakov Lane, construction began on May 1, 1907, and in the fall the building was already standing, ready for finishing work, which continued throughout the winter and spring of the next year. Consecration in the name of the Resurrection of Christ and the Protection of the Virgin took place on June 8, 1908. The cost of construction and finishing was about 150 thousand rubles.

Photo of 1909.

Everything in the church was made according to the project of I. Ye. Bondarenko: the iconostasis of dark bog oak, and bronze utensils, and wrought iron decorations, and majolica made in the Abramtsevo pottery workshop in Butyrki. At the moment, it seems like restoration work is being carried out

Wooden dwelling house A.V. Krupennikov, 1912-1913, architect V.A.Rudanovsky, Denisovsky lane, 24

Mansion 1903, architect L.F. Dauksh, Denisovskiy per., 30s1

Mansion of the early 19th century, Denisovskiy per. 23
At the heart of this building are the chambers of the XII-XVIII centuries, which completely preserved the system of vaults in the basement floor. In 1777. its owner was I.I. Butasov. It is possible that by 1817. it was built on a much older foundation by Second Lieutenant S.G. Savin

And this is the very first building of the architect F.O. Shekhtel. Baumanskaya st. d. 58
In 1878 (according to other sources, in 1884), he fulfilled the order of the textile manufacturer Shchapov, having built a residential building for him at the corner of modern German Baumanskaya) and Denisovsky Lane.

Here is such a walk. I hope I didn't tire you too much. Thank you for walking with me