Topographic maps of the volosts of the Kazan province. Antediluvian Tataria
How do cities grow and mold? Almost the same. A starting point has appeared that you need to get to - only one way is enough to get to it. But the point that is gaining momentum is looking for more connections with the outside world. And where - like ours - there are no geographic intricacies, this point gives itself several more roads in the directions it needs.
Ancient roads are always naturally curved. They bypass hills, reservoirs, swamps and other inconveniences for themselves. They, like river beds, fidget over the years and centuries until they find the optimal position. Of the many directions needed by the item, the most important ones stand out. Finally, they get their names, most often from the locality or from the objects to which they lead.
KAZAN GLAVPOCHTAMP - ALL ROADS AND TRACKS IN THE GOVERNMENT WERE COUNTED FROM HERE
To these, the most important directions, over time, splinters from the initial settlement or simply new settlements stick. Developed ancient systems of human settlement, including Kazan - a type of many-legged creature. The gaps between the paws became meadows, arable lands, pastures, or remained nothing. Gradually, new settlements were formed in them, but the main ones clung to the paths-roads to the main settlement - the city. Over time, some settlement on these roads flourished, became a local center and also gave a name to the road on which it grew.
Let's go back to Kazan. We are not aware of the drawing of ancient roads, ancient settlement. The earliest reliable cartography came to us only from the 18th century. I emphasize - reliable - since before there were world and regional maps drawn up, as a rule, by travelers, as well as local "land plans". The language of both is conditional in terms of topography. And of the acceptable and early, the most illustrative, in line with the topic under discussion, was the "Geometric map ... of the great roads lying along the Kazan district" of the late 18th century. [Fig. 1] 
Highlighted on it 8 " big roads"Have retained their dominance to the present, although the intervals have become built up over time, and they have their own new network of streets. At that time, these roads were called (from the west and clockwise):
- Big post road from the city of Sviyazhsk, she and Moscow(now - approximately along the 1st May street and from the south of the Powder Factory, Arakchinskoe highway, etc.);
- The road to the pilgrimage, i.e. - to the Raifskaya desert(approximately from the 1st May street to the Gorkovskoe highway, then this road turned into ZAVOLZHSKY KOKSHAISKY TRACT); 
- 20,493 views
I went to a wonderful site with a large archive of old maps. There is a lot there, but the map of Tataria from 1940 turned out to be especially interesting to me. On the one hand, the administrative changes that have taken place since that time are insignificant, and this makes it easy to navigate the area and look for small "geographic news". On the other hand, the republic is well overrun. Two grandiose puddles appeared on the map - the Kuibyshev and Nizhnekamsk reservoirs. Thanks to these hydro-dominants, Tatarstan, which is small in general, is noticeable even on the map of the entire country. Here, look how the TASSR looked like before the great flood. The two "great rivers" of Russia, the Kama and the Volga, flow in frivolous, barely visible streams.
Kuibyshev. Not to be confused with Samara. Both Kuibyshevs were on the Volga. To distinguish them, they spoke about the regional Kuibyshev (present-day Samara) and the regional Kuibyshev - now the town of Bolgar. Before the flooding, it was, strictly speaking, far from the Volga, on the Abyss River. And then ... Kuibyshev was moved to a new place. See with. Bulgarians? This is where the whole city moved. In general, during the construction of the hydroelectric power station in Tataria, there were fully migrated 78 settlements... Not flooded, as the zealots of the primordial ecology like to say, but transferred. Homes, factories, schools, hospitals and even cemeteries. 
The same place now. Kuibyshev in a new place and with a new name. 
The confluence of the Volga and Kama. See how it used to be. At this point, they flowed almost parallel, forming an unusual peninsula with banks washed by two different rivers. The title photo shows a frame from the movie Volga, Volga. Unfortunately, it was filmed in a completely different place, but for clarity, it will go. So it probably looked like. Two narrow but fast rivers flow together, nothing special. 
Now there is water for fifty kilometers. The shore is not visible. Grandiose views are now opening from the Kamsky Ustye. Kazan dachas are rich here. 
This is how it looks now:
We go a little east, up the Kama. I marked with numbers Key us. points. It was. 
It has become. A large bridge has now been built here over the Kama. There used to be a ferry here and to travel from Chistopol to Kazan (130 km.) Sometimes it took a whole day because of the long queues. 
A little higher - the city of my childhood Chistopol. Everything here is ridden on a bicycle, groomed by feet. Everything is familiar here. 
And here a lot is completely unfamiliar. Glass manufacture??? Never heard of him. What happened to him? He drowned (c)
Pay attention to the MTS icons. Already in the 40th year, cellular communication was working here. 
See the place on the map by the arrow. There is nothing but a couple of villages. 
And now here is the third largest city in Tatarstan. 235 thousand people of the population. The largest chemical plant in Europe. Its beauty can be admired from our Elabuga coast.
The Kama is narrow, pristine here, but this is because it flows right after another dam - the Nizhnekamsk hydroelectric power station. Immediately behind it is the sea again. 
This is how Kama was in patriarchal times. Under the number №1 Bondyuzhsky area and with. Bondyuga (emphasis on the first syllable of course). In 1940 it was a separate area. Then it will be added to the Elabuga one, and then it will again become an independent unit. And it will also be renamed Mendeleevsk. Here, too, a not weak chemical plant smokes, and an even larger one is being built. Number 3 is the Ik river, number 2 is the town of Menzelinsk on the Menzel river. Remember them like this. 
There was the city of Menzelinsk and the port of Menzelinsk on the Kama. There is such a distance between them. 
And now here. Menzelinsk ended up on the Kama (actually a spilled Ik). In Soviet times, there was such an incident. The old port was drowned, but the water did not reach the new one. The fact is that the water level was raised below the planned level, and the pier was built with this in mind. 
Even in his distant childhood, he was interested in archaeological maps of his native Tatarstan. Careful study of them led to an amazing historical find: for the entire pre-Russian era, a few settlements arose on the "Mountain Side" in the interfluve of the Volga and Sulitsa from Kazan to the Kama estuary.
Recently I unearthed in my father's library the post-Stalinist "History Tatar ASSR", Vol. 1 (from ancient times to the Great October Socialist Revolution). Kazan Branch of the USSR Academy of Sciences. IYALI. Tatknigoizdat. Kazan, 1955, 550 pp. A wonderful work, a lot of attention is paid to the struggle of peoples against their oppressors - tsars, landowners, and then the capitalists (for those who go to Bolotnaya Square, I recommend reading it before going out).
In this, I emphasize once again, a wonderful book contains, among other things, three maps of the pre-Bulgarian era, the Bulgar period and the period of the Kazan Khanate. If, again, you look at them carefully, then the surprise increases many times over.
Map of the pre-Bulgarian period.
Bulgarian era map:
Map of the Kazan Khanate period:
It follows from the maps that from the antiquities of the 1st millennium BC and the 1st millennium AD on the territory of the Mountain Side, only one burial ground of the Ananyino culture was found in Empty Morkvashi.
In the Bulgar period on this territory there was only one undated settlement in the Kuralovo region of the Verkhneuslonsky region, and during the period of the Kazan Khanate there were villages on the site of the modern Empty Morkvash of the Verkhneuslonsky and Tenkovs of the Kamsko-Ustyinsky region, and a Bulgar cemetery of the beginning of the 16th century was found. near the village of Seitovo, Verkhneuslonsky district.
The question arises - why was the local population so reluctant to explore the Mountain side. At first I thought that this was due to the problem of water delivery - it was still easier to go down to the water (rivers, springs) in the lowlands, but lowlands (ravines, relief depressions) also exist in the interfluve of the Volga and Sulitsa. In addition, the territory south of the Kamsky Ustye is even more "mountainous", however, many settlements arose there in the pre-Bulgarian and, especially, in the Bulgar time. Influence of warlike cheremis? However, this did not interfere with the development of the left bank of the Volga, Kazanka and Mesha, and along the Sviyaga and along the right bank of the Volga in Chuvashia, many Bulgar settlements and settlements arose.
In general, whatever one may say, until the moment of the conquest of the Kazan Khanate by Ivan the Terrible, the interfluve of the Volga and Sulitsa remained an incomprehensible uninhabited blank spot on the archaeological maps of Tatarstan. What is especially interesting is that it was not particularly populated in the era of the Kazan Khanate, when the capital city was right next door, and the left side of the Volga was actively "built up".
In general, only one option comes to mind - in ancient times they experienced an incomprehensible fear of the territory of the Mountain Side or there was some kind of prohibition to settle, associated with ancient beliefs.
Therefore, the idea arose to figure out on the spot what attracted people to those three points on the map of the Mountain Side, where people nevertheless settled in pre-Russian times, in order to then try to draw some conclusions. I will note in advance that I have not made any conclusions yet.
In Empty Morkvash, I have visited a friend's dacha several times, I know these places like the back of my hand (I plowed them on foot, on skis, and on my friend's "Niva"), and in Tenki I have my own house and, naturally, I have studied the surrounding area far and wide (on foot and by car). It remains to visit Seitovo. On which my wife and I decided on March 10, 2012.
The winter landscape around Seitovo, although beautiful, is still monotonous:
Seitovo is located in the valley of the small river Shish, which flows into Sulitsa:
"And we have gas in the village, and you?" The houses, of course, are old, but obviously not from the times of the Kazan Khanate:
Strange sheds of incomprehensible functional purpose are scattered around the village (another mystery):
Strange ruins in the floodplain of the Shish River:
Or maybe this tree in the Shisha floodplain remembers the Kazan Khanate?
Surprisingly, the times of the Kazan Khanate are long gone, but people still go to fetch water from the Shish River and take water from an ordinary pit located next to the river bed. Only the path to the source is cleaned in winter with tractors. And to the pit itself there is a touching bridge across the Shish River:
Shish:
The pit where buckets and bottles are filled drinking water- depth from half a meter somewhere.
There are many reprints on the Internet from the Efron and Brockhaus dictionary and, in principle, it is easy to find information from it using any search engine.
27th half-turn. Articles in it are located from the concept of "Kalaka" to "Kardam", but the first thing that is proposed is "Map of the Kazan province" ...
The first page of the 27th half-volume of the XIV volume of the "Encyclopedic Dictionary" Brockhaus and Efron "
Kazan Province Map as of 1890
For comparison, I will suggest map of modern Tatarstan:
Of course, more than a century has passed since the creation of such a grandiose reference manual as the Brockhaus and Efron Encyclopedic Dictionary. Much has changed, including the Kazan province. Next, I offer some materials on the history of the Kazan province (materials are taken from the sources indicated at the end of the post)
Kazan province- administrative-territorial unit Russian Empire and the RSFSR, which existed in 1725-1920. Provincial city - Kazan.
Kazan province was formed in 1708 in the course of the administrative-territorial reform of the Russian Empire, begun by Peter I. n. by order of the Kazan Palace in Moscow.
The first Kazan governor was Pyotr Matveyevich Apraksin.
Initially, the Kazan province covered the territory from Nizhny Novgorod to Astrakhan and was divided into voivodeships, from 1719 - into provinces, from 1775 - into counties.
Kazan province originally covered the territory on the right and left banks of the Volga from Nizhny Novgorod to Astrakhan. Consisted of Kazan, Sviyazhsky, Penza, Simbirsky, Ufa, Astrakhan and other voivodeships, which from 1719 began to be called provinces.
In the 18th century in different time Simbirsk (1780), Nizhny Novgorod (1718), Penza, Astrakhan (1717) and other provinces were separated from the Kazan province into independent administrative units.
In 1709, the Kazan province was divided into 4 provinces, in 1725 - into 6 provinces: Kazan, Sviyazhsk, Penza, Ufa, Vyatka and Solikamsk. Kazan was considered a province of the highest category, and all the rest were attributed to it. Subsequently, the territory of the province was repeatedly reduced, from its composition were allocated Astrakhan, Nizhny Novgorod, Simbirsk, Saratov, Orenburg provinces, parts of the Vyatka, Perm, Tambov, Penza, Kostroma, Vladimir, Samara provinces. However, Kazan province has not lost its leading positions.
V In 1781, the Kazan province was transformed into a vicegerency (since 1796 - again a province), which included 13 counties. In the same year, the coats of arms of the province and county towns were approved.
At the end of the 18th century, there were 13 cities in the province: Kazan, Arsk, Kozmodemyansk, Laishevo, Mamadysh, Sviyazhsk, Spassk, Tetyushi, Tsarevokokshaisk (Yoshkar-Ola), Tsivilsk, Cheboksary, Chistopol, Yadrin, a total of 7272 settlements.
In the 19th century, the importance of Kazan as an administrative center increased even more. The capital of the province became the center of the educational (1805) and military (1826) districts.
V 1920 , after unsuccessful attempts by the leaders of the Tatar national-democratic movement to form on the territory of K.G. and the adjacent regions, first the Ural-Volga State, then the Tatar-Bashkir Soviet Socialist Republic, the creation of the Tatar ASSR was proclaimed. Kazansky, Laishevsky, Mamadyshsky, Sviyazhsky, Spassky (except for some volosts, which were transferred to the Simbirsk province.), Tetyushsky, Chistopol districts and a number of volosts of other districts of K.G. became part of Tatarstan (see Decree of the All-Russian Central Executive Committee and the Council of People's Commissars of the RSFSR "On the Autonomous Tatar Socialist Soviet Republic"), its other counties - Cheboksary, Tsivilsky, Yadrinsky - were later included in the Chuvash ASSR, Kozmodemyansky and Tsaryovokokshaysky - in Mari ASSR.
Governors K.G.: P.M. Apraksin (1708-13), P.S. Saltykov (1713-19), A.P. Saltykov (1719-24), I.A. von Mengden (1725), A.P. Volynsky (1725-27, 1728-30), V.N. Zotov (1727-28), M.V.Dolgorukov (1730-31), P.I. Musin-Pushkin (1731-35), A.I. Rumyantsev (1735-36), S.D. Golitsyn (1736-39), A.G. Zagryazhsky (1741-48), S.T. Grekov (1748-55), F.I. Golovin (1755-58), V.B. Tenishev (1758-64), A.N. Kvashnin-Samarin (1764-70), J.I.fon () Brandt (1770-74), P S. Meshchersky (1774-80), I.B. Bibikov (1780-81); governor-generals (governors): P.I. Panin (1774-75), P.S. Meshchersky (1780-92), M.I.Kutuzov (1793-96), S.I. Mavrin (1796), V.Yu. Soimonov (1822 -25), A.N.Bakhmetev (1825-28), A.E. Timashev (1864-65); governors of the governorship: I.Bibikov (1781-83), I.A.Tatishchev (1783-89), S.M. Baratayev (1789-96); military governors: P.S. Meshchersky (1796-97), B.P. deLassie (1797-98), P.P. Pushchin (1798-1801); citizen governors: S.M.Baratayev (1796-97), D.S.Kazinsky (1797-99), A.I. Mukhanov (1799-1801), A.A.Aplecheev (1801-02), N.I.Katsarev (1802-03), B.A. Mansurov(1803-14), I.A. Tolstoy (1815-20), P.A. Nilov (1820-23), A.Ya. Zhmakin (1823-26), O. F. Rosen (1826-28), I.G. Zhevanov (1829-30), A.K. Pirkh (1830-31); military governors with civil administration part: S.S. Strekalov (1831-41), S.P. Shipov (1841-46), I.A. Boratynsky (1846-50, 1851-57), E.P. Tolstoy (1850), P.F Kozlyaninov (1857-63), M.K. Naryshkin (1863-66); governors: N.Ya. Skaryatin (1866-80), A.K. Gaines (1880-82), L.I. Cherkasov (1882-84), N.E. Andreevsky (1884-89), P.A. Poltoratsky (1889-1904), P.F. Khomutov (1904-05), A.A. Reinbot (1905-06), M.V. Strizhevsky (1906-13), P.M. Boyarsky (1913-17).
Sources:
http://slovari.yandex.ru/~%D0%BA%D0%BD%D0%B8%D0%B3%D0%B8/%D0%91%D1%80%D0%BE%D0%BA%D0 % B3% D0% B0% D1% 83% D0% B7% 20% D0% B8% 20% D0% 95% D1% 84% D1% 80% D0% BE% D0% BD /% D0% 9A% D0% B0% D0% B7% D0% B0% D0% BD% D1% 81% D0% BA% D0% B0% D1% 8F% 20% D0% B3% D1% 83% D0% B1% D0% B5% D1% 80% D0% BD% D0% B8% D1% 8F / Contents of the article "Kazan province" from the dictionary of Brockhaus and Efron
http://images.yandex.ru/yandsearch?text=%D0%BA%D0%B0%D1%80%D1%82%D0%B0%20%D1%80%D0%B5%D1%81%D0 % BF% D1% 83% D0% B1% D0% BB% D0% B8% D0% BA% D0% B8% 20% D0% A2% D0% B0% D1% 82% D0% B0% D1% 80% D1 % 81% D1% 82% D0% B0% D0% BD & rpt = simage & p = 2 & img_url = kartoman.ru% 2Fwp-content% 2Fuploads% 2F2011% 2F04% 2Fkarta_tatarstana.jpg & noreask = 1 & lr = 5 Map of Tataria (Republic of Tatarstan)
http://www.ite.antat.ru/articles/kazanskaya_guberniya.html Institute of the Tatar Encyclopedia
Economic Map of the Tatar Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic
Creation of statehood Tatar people passed over short term in several stages. Initially, it was planned to create the Idel-Ural republic, then the Kazan Republic, the Tatar-Bashkir Republic. However, the most real step was the formation of the Tatar Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic, which most fully reflected the requirements of the Bolshevik Party and partly met the requirements of the Tatar people. Her education was announced on June 25, 1920. The republic was created as a multinational state, part of the RSFSR. In 1920, 2851.9 thousand people lived on its territory, of which: Tatars - 49.5%, Russians - 41.2%, Chuvash - 5.9%, Mari - 0.8%. years TASSR became an industrial-agrarian republic. Collectivization was carried out. New industrial enterprises have been created, the illiteracy of the bulk of the population has been eliminated.
Over the years Soviet power industrial enterprises of mechanical engineering, chemical, oil, energy, light and Food Industry... A number of enterprises have been restored and reconstructed. In the first five-year plan (1929-1932), 22 large industrial enterprises were put into operation. The factories of typewriters, dental instruments, a chemical-pharmaceutical plant, the Kazan fur plant, the Volga plywood plant, a silicate brick plant, Kazan, Chistopol and Bugulma meat-packing plants, Kazan bakery, etc.
In the second five-year plan (1933-1937), 24 large industrial enterprises were built and put into operation. Among them are TPP No. 1, Kirov Plant, Film Factory, Sleeper Impregnation Plant, Vasilievsky Forestry, Kazan Felting and Felting Plant, Kazan Garment Factory No. 4, Bakery No. 2 and No. 4, Confectionery Factory named. Mikoyan, a saddlery factory, etc. During the three and a half years of the third five-year plan (1938 - the first half of 1941), 12 large industrial enterprises were built. CHP # 2, artificial leather factories, photo-gelatinous, tire repair, brick plant K-14, Kazan disinfection equipment plant were put into operation. One of the first synthetic rubber factories in the country and an aircraft plant №124 named after V.I. Ordzhonikidze.
The head of the spiritual administration of Muslims of the European part of the USSR and Siberia, Riza Fakhrutdinov, in a letter addressed to the Chairman of the Supreme Soviet of the USSR M.I. Kalinin wrote in 1932 that out of 12 thousand mosques, 10 thousand were closed by the beginning of the 30s. The mufti asked the "All-Union headman" to assist in stopping such a campaign. However, the next wave of demolition of minarets, mosques, their closure, the transformation of mosques into clubs, schools, hostels took place at the end of the same 30s. A similar fate befell the churches. So, as of January 1944, only 2 churches functioned in Tatarstan - in Kazan and Menzelinsk. Of the 70 districts of the republic, 69 no longer had functioning churches.
